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A new era in sustainable seafood has officially begun. The FDA has granted approval for the first-ever lab-grown fish to be served to the public, marking a major milestone for food innovation.
The honor goes to Wildtype, a San Francisco-based startup whose cultivated salmon is now available on the menu at a celebrated Portland restaurant. With this breakthrough, lab-grown meat has officially moved beyond poultry and into the waters.
Wildtype’s big win
In a public announcement, Wildtype shared that the FDA had completed a “thorough pre-market safety consultation” and concluded there were “no questions at this time” regarding the company’s product.
The agency’s assessment deemed Wildtype’s cultured salmon as safe as any conventionally harvested fish.Though this isn’t the FDA’s first approval of lab-grown meat—that title goes to cultivated chicken in 2022—it is the first for a fish product. What makes Wildtype’s salmon stand out is not just how it’s made, but how it’s meant to be eaten. Unlike traditional seafood that must be cooked, these sushi-grade “saku” cuts are designed to be served raw, offering a cleaner, sustainable alternative for sashimi lovers.
How it’s made
To craft the salmon, Wildtype scientists begin by collecting living cells from Pacific salmon. These cells are then cultivated in a lab under precisely controlled conditions—mimicking the natural environment of the fish, including temperature, nutrients, and pH levels. Over time, the cells grow into edible tissue. To complete the process, plant-based ingredients are blended in to perfect the taste, color, and texture of traditional salmon.The result is a sushi-ready product that doesn’t require fishing or farming, reducing strain on marine ecosystems.
On the menu (for now) in Portland
Hungry for a bite? You’ll need to head to Kann, a James Beard Award–winning Haitian restaurant in Portland, Oregon, where Wildtype’s salmon made its debut in late May. Chef Gregory Gourdet serves the cultivated fish with spiced tomato, pickled strawberries, strawberry juice, and a crispy rice cracker topped with epis, a zesty Haitian pesto.
The salmon will be added to Kann’s full menu starting in July. Wildtype also revealed that four other restaurants are lined up to serve the fish later this year—though likely not in any of the eight U.S. states that have banned lab-grown meat.Despite ongoing political opposition, the science is clear: lab-grown seafood is here, and it’s safe. The question now is whether diners—and the industry—are ready to dive in.