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Once reserved for dermatology clinics, light therapy has now entered the mainstream of beauty and wellness. From LED face masks and red-light panels to toothbrushes equipped with glowing diodes, consumers are increasingly turning to these gadgets in search of brighter skin, whiter teeth, faster recovery, and even mental clarity.So much is the hype that the global light therapy market, valued at USD 1 billion in 2022, is projected to reach USD 1.44 billion by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 4.6%.Celebrities such as Salma Hayek, Kim Kardashian, Jessica Alba, and Vanessa Hudgens have all endorsed or showcased red-light devices as part of their skincare routines, helping to cement light therapy as one of the most talked-about trends in beauty technology. But beyond the celebrity glow, what does the science actually say?
The science of light therapy
Light is a form of electromagnetic radiation, spanning from low-energy radio waves to high-energy gamma rays.
Phototherapy, or light therapy, typically uses wavelengths from the middle of this spectrum, primarily visible and infrared light, to stimulate biological processes in the body.Some of light’s effects are well-documented. Sunlight, for instance, helps the body produce vitamin D, which supports bone health, muscle function, and immunity. It also regulates the circadian rhythm, influencing mood, alertness, and sleep. Sunlight-mimicking lamps are often prescribed for Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), helping to lift winter blues by mimicking natural daylight exposure.
In medicine, ultraviolet (UV) light has long been used to treat eczema, psoriasis, and vitiligo. Dermatologists employ narrow-band UVB light, a controlled wavelength, to reduce the risks of burning or tanning.
Red light therapy
While ultraviolet therapy has medical approval, the beauty industry’s fascination centres on red and near-infrared light (LED). Dr Bernard Ho of the British Association of Dermatologists, told The Guardian, “Red LEDs aren’t really used in the medical sense, but they may help with certain conditions”Red light is believed to boost blood circulation, oxygen uptake, and collagen production, promoting cell renewal and giving skin a firmer, plumper look.However, Dr Ho cautions that, “We don’t know whether or not the lights emitted [by consumer devices] are reflective of the research that has been done. We don’t know the duration, how close the lights should be to the skin, or whether that will increase the risk versus the benefit. There are lots of questions.”In dermatology clinics, LEDs are sometimes used after chemical peels or injections to reduce inflammation and redness, helping skin recover faster. Professional-grade devices must display a CE marking, showing that they meet medical safety standards.
Over-the-counter versions, however, are less tightly regulated.
Blue light therapy
Blue light therapy first gained attention for its ability to target Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium associated with acne. The idea was to destroy acne-causing microbes on the skin’s surface without harsh chemicals.However, as Dr Ho notes, the evidence remains limited: “The efficacy isn’t strong enough for it to be routinely prescribed by doctors,” he says, adding that blue light therapy “is often seen in medical spas or aesthetics practices.”
For those trying it at home, he advises using only safety-assessed devices and exercising caution with frequency and duration of exposure.
Infrared therapy for cellular health
A growing body of research suggests that infrared light, particularly at around 1070 nanometres, may play a role in improving cellular health. In a study co-authored by Professor Paul L. Chazot at Durham University and published in Mary Ann Liebert journal, infrared exposure was shown to stimulate the mitochondria, the “powerhouses” of cells, enhancing their ability to generate energy.“It has been shown that in humans this light therapy increases blood flow into the brain, which is always very good,” says Chazot. His research revealed that infrared light prompts the production of reactive oxygen species, which in small amounts help protect and repair mitochondria by activating chaperone proteins. These processes, Chazot explains, have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and pro-autophagy effects, all beneficial for cellular longevity and potentially for neurodegenerative conditions.While early results are promising, experts like Dr Ho stress the need for controlled, long-term studies to determine optimal dosages and exposure times. “Even if you’re using a medical device,” he says, “it will depend on the device itself and what the manufacturers’ recommendations are based on their testing.”The allure of light therapy is real but for now, it’s best seen as a complement to, not a replacement for, established medical or skincare treatments.Note: The information provided in this article is for educational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new medication or treatment.
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