Decoding India’s love affair with nose ornaments

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Decoding India’s love affair with nose ornaments

Once bound by custom, India’s many nose ornaments are now fashion’s boldest nod to heritage. From bridal grandeur to everyday chic, each region holds a story — proof that these adornments are always in vogue.

Here’s why.Classic and elegant east

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Bengal’s nath, once a marital hallmark, is being reimagined — oversized gold-and-pearl rings for purists; daintier versions for fusion looks. Assam & Odisha’s tribal traditions add depth: the Dongria Kondh tribe’s Mungeli Murma is worn from infancy as a mark of pride.Royal & polki-rich westThe West showcases royal drama: Rajasthan’s Polki Nath, Gujarat’s ornate bulaks, and Maharashtra’s paisley-shaped Brahmani Nath.

Uncut diamonds and pearls define the region’s signature, with detachable chains and scaled-down hoops bringing palace aesthetics into contemporary designs.Ornate & ceremonial northNorth India’s Shikarpuri Nath & Pahari Nath are a must for brides — usual oversized, with delicate pearls or subtle polki accents. Pendant-style long bulak traditions from the hills speak to identity, prosperity, and familial lineage.Minimal yet devotional south

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The South leans restrained yet symbolic. The everyday mookuthi (stud), septum-worn pullaku, and delicate besari hoops draw from temple iconography. Designers prioritise ergonomics—lighter, better-balanced pieces that sit with ease—while preserving the intimacy and devotion embedded in these forms.Style it with pride

  • For weddings, opt for oversised hoops with polki, pearls or enamel
  • For everyday chic, wear sleek phuli studs or micro-hoops
  • Play with asymmetry or double piercings (one bold, one delicate).
  • Try ornaments with gemstones for colour

Bengal’s nath reigns supreme in weddings, but modern brides experiment with motifs keeping the tradition alive

– Monalisha Manna, founder of a jewellery brand

Across time, the nose ornament has worn many hats: marriage, beauty, belonging, and now individuality. It’s a small mark that subtly carries history, culture, & self all at once

–Sarath Selvanathan, designer-founder of a nose ornament brand

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