From childhood memories to kitchens, mangoes take over Goa

With the mango season on, homes across Goa are overflowing with the king of fruits. From jams and squashes to cakes, shakes and traditional delicacies, mangoes are finding their way into kitchens right now.Calangute-based model Narusha Dsouza says mango season has always been her favourite time of year. “Despite Mankurad being called the king of mangoes in Goa, I have always loved the Mangilar (Hilario) and Fernandin varieties more,” she says, adding, “Every year at home, we would make mango jam from them and, honestly, those are some of my favourite childhood memories.”TAKING THE TRADITIONAL ROUTE Margao home chef Sonika Lotliker is keeping the beloved Goan delicacy Saasanv alive through her diverse homemade offerings.

She says, “Saasanv, a sweet and tangy mango side dish made with ripe Ghonta mangoes — tiny, fibrous mangoes native to Goa — is deeply nostalgic for me. It reminds me of the meals prepared by my grandmother and mother that would draw me excitedly back home from school or college. I decided to include it in my menu and specialise in different varieties of Saasanv, including versions made with raw mangoes, Ghonta mangoes, bottle mangoes and more.

”MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THESEFor Sarah DCosta, a teacher from Margao, mango season is about preserving traditions. “Every year, my mother and I make a few mango delicacies that are stored through the year until the next season. We make pickles and mango jam called Mangada,” she says, adding that bottles are often sent to family overseas. Narusha, too, fondly reminisces about her younger days. “I remember sitting around with sticky hands, waiting for the mangoes to be cut and fighting for the extra pieces while the whole house smelled of fresh mangoes,” she says.CAKES AND DESSERTSPastry chefs are finding innovative ways to make the most of the fruit. “We love making cakes with fresh fruits, so during this season we create a variety of mango desserts, cheesecakes, fruit cakes and more. Our customers absolutely love them,” says chef Pratik Roy. Amar Naik, who runs a shake stall in Mapusa, believes seasonal produce is always the best. “We make a delicious Mango Mastani with different mango elements, from the shake and pulp to chunks of fresh mango pieces,” he says.