In frames | Feast of feasts

Amulti-course traditional mutton feast, Wazwan is a symbol of hospitality, culture, and Kashmir’s deep-rooted connections with Central Asia. The feast is traditionally prepared for weddings, festivals, and other grand occasions. The word wazwan is derived from two Persian terms — waza, meaning “cook,” and wan, meaning “shop” or “place.”

The wazas, or master chefs, have inherited their exceptional culinary skills through generations. They are in high demand during the wedding season, which begins in spring and continues until late autumn in Kashmir.

The preparation ofwazwanis an elaborate process that begins long before the guests arrive. Under the supervision of the head chef, a team of cooks works together — often through the night — to create a variety of dishes, ranging from the basic course of seven to more than 36, depending on the host’s means and the chef’s creativity.

Lamb is the main ingredient in this feast, and its signature dishes include rista(soft meatballs in red gravy), roganjosh(spiced lamb curry), gushtaba(minced mutton balls in yoghurt sauce), and tabakh maaz(fried lamb ribs). Each dish is cooked in large copper utensils called deegover firewood, which imparts a distinctive aroma.

The meat is traditionally pounded overnight on flat stones — a unique preparatory technique that enhances texture and flavour.

Guests are seated in groups of four around large copper plates called tramis, heaped with fragrant rice and topped with the array of delicacies.

Before and after the meal, the hosts offer a mobile basin called tash naerfor guests to wash their hands — a ritual that embodies cleanliness and respect.

The waywazwanis prepared, served, and shared represents far more than a meal; it is a cherished expression of Kashmiri hospitality — a gesture of warmth, intimacy, and honour.