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The hallmark of jamdani lies in its interwoven motifs. Pics (L-R): @kathatale and @real_weaverstory
What is jamdani?The hallmark of jamdani lies in its interwoven motifs, with delicate patterns that appear to float on the fabric’s surface. Jamdani, literally translated as flower vase, is a supplementary weft weave, where each horizontal thread is added individually by hand to create any design element.
'The key to reinventing Jamdani lies in innovation and cross-pollination of techniques' (Pics: @real_weaverstory)
Fact sheet
- In 2013, the traditional art of weaving jamdani was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
- In 2016, Bangladesh received geographical indication (GI) status for jamdani sari
- West Bengal is a major centre for jamdani weaving. Some of the regions in Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh also have jamdani weaver clusters
- Jamdani varieties can be classified based on the yarn used, motifs, and regional styles. Popular types include muslin, cotton and silk jamdani
- The motifs draw heavily from nature, with traditional designs ranging from floral patterns to geometric shapes. Motifs are drawn on graph paper placed beneath the warp
- Each jamdani sari is entirely handwoven on a traditional pitloom, using hand-spun yarns of silk, linen or cotton
- Depending on the intricacy of the design, it takes anywhere from 30 to 60 days for an artisan to complete a single sari
The weave serves as a canvas for boundless creativity, making it a beloved choice for handloom lovers. It’s the combination of artistry, texture, and design possibilities that make jamdani so appealing today
Designer Gaurang Shah
Unifying the old with the newDesigner Gaurang Shah says the key to reinventing Jamdani lies in innovation and cross-pollination of techniques. “Many designers are unifying the old with the new, introducing modern aesthetics while preserving the craft and the tradition. For example, in Nalgonda (Telangana), weavers traditionally skilled in ikkat were taught jamdani and kanchi techniques, and the fusion led to the creation of new patterns,” he adds.
The weave serves as a canvas for boundless creativity (Pics: @gaurangofficial)
Mehuli Chakraborty, a jamdani weaver from Samudragarh, says, “Now weaver clusters have designers on board. Traditionally, jamdani saris were woven in ghee (cream), red, green and yellow. Now, designers help weavers to create new motifs and weave in pastel colours.”Reinventing jamdani for modern wardrobesNew motif vocabularies are adding a contemporary touch to jamdani. Designer Suparna Som says, “Jamdani is a time-intensive craft, making it an enduring luxury.”
Adding how it is being reinvented to suit modern tastes, she says, “A new floral vocabulary, like culturally significant and auspicious flowers like lotus, jasmine, hibiscus and marigold, has been introduced. Jamdani in mulberry silk, linen and silk organza are also available.
These newer fabrics bring lightness, fluidity and versatility, while keeping the weave relevant for modern wardrobes.”
New motif vocabularies are adding a contemporary touch to jamdani (Pics: @suparna_som)
Nostalgia always has takers. Designer Parama Ghosh says, “Vintage motifs like korat phool, makkhi boota continue to be woven in our centres in Kalna and Phulia. Women still love wearing Satyajit Ray’s Charulata and Ghare Baire-inspired jamdanis. While saris continue to be a quintessential jamdani to own, to increase the wearability, dresses, jackets, blouses and trousers are also being made. New-age motifs like hearts, watermelons, parrots, cactus or nostalgia-inspired ones like a radio have been added to cater to the younger generation.
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Women still love wearing Satyajit Ray films-inspired jamdanis; new age motifs are in vogue too (Pics: @parama_g)(Pics:
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