What makes Banarasi sarees so special? Here are 10 reasons for their everlasting charm

Banarasi sarees are more than garments, they are heirlooms woven with history, culture and craftsmanship. Originating from the sacred city of Varanasi (Banaras), these silk masterpieces have maintained their iconic status for centuries, admired for their richness and elegance.Steeped in tradition, Banarasi sarees are much more than fashion statements; they are cultural treasures cherished across generations. In many Indian households, a Banarasi saree is passed down through generations, worn by brides on their wedding day or any other religious ceremonies. Each intricate thread symbolises prosperity, spiritual grace, and devotion.

Banarasi saree: A glorious heritage

The Banarasi saree’s rich history began during the Mughal era, combining Indian traditions with Persian and Islamic artistry.

Emperors and royal families patronised these waves, merging Indian tradition with Islamic artistry. Royal patronage helped develop its distinctive design, featuring floral patterns, architectural elements, and symbolic motifs. Over the years, this artistry was preserved by generations of weavers in Varanasi and surrounding towns like Chaundali, Mirzapur, and Bhadohi. Today, the Geographical Indication (GI) Act ensures the authenticity and craftsmanship of Banarasi sarees.

Intricate craftsmanship: The soul of Banarasi saree

Creating Banarasi sarees is a time-intensive process that requires patience, precision, and passion. This is how the process works:Design drafting: Designs are drawn on graph paper and drafted onto punch cards for use on Jacquard looms.Weaving: Each saree takes anywhere from 15 days to 6 months to complete. While it requires a few days for the jacquard loom to be threaded and tuned, the weaving is simultaneous with three expert artisans working at the same time on one saree at three positions.

Saree threads: Woven together in the sarees are pure silk (Katan), zari (gold/silver metallic thread), and sometimes cotton, creating glittery, textural patterns that are both luxurious and grounding.The most prominent of styles are Jangla, Butidar, Tanchoi, Tissue, and Cutwork sarees; each with its technique and motifs including mango leaves (kalga), lotus flowers, Mughal architecture, and trailing vines (bel).

10 things that make Banarasi saree so special and timeless

Royal origin: These sarees are from the historic city of Varanasi, which is associated with much of India's royal heritage. They hold a great deal of Mughal influence and cultural history. Exquisite craftsmanship: Each saree is handwoven by skilled artisans using traditional looms, often taking weeks or even months to completeLuxurious fabrics: When made with pure silk (katan), zari (gold/silver threads), or occasionally fine cotton, Banarasi sarees are tactile, rich, and luxurious

Intricate motifs: Banarasi sarees feature designs that resemble fine Mughal artistic influence, with motifs that often represent florals, peacocks, and the kalga-bel vines that are often adorned with symbolic meaning.Zari Buraq: The Banarsi saree can easily be identified by the gold and silver zari plot of work within them. It gives shimmer and elegance to the Banarasi sareesVersatile draping: Despite their rich fabric, they drape beautifully. There are ways to drape and style them for traditional and modern looks.

Social status symbol: Historically worn by brides and Noblemen, Banarsi sarees are recognised for beauty and social status as well.Variety of styles: Banarasi sarees are available in Katan, Organza, Georgette, and Shattir, and are suitable for bridal occasions and evening parties, or light celebrations.Cultural preservation: Weaving communities in Varanasi have retained their craft throughout the generations and consequently have helped safeguard India's textile heritage.International appeal: From Bollywood superstars to commercial runways in New York City, Banarasi sarees are now popular and recognised by a number of initiatives worldwide.

Sustainability & challenges

The Banarasi weaving industry, though celebrated, faces challenges. The rise of machine-made imitations threatens the livelihood of authentic handloom artisans. Additionally, chemical dyes and synthetic yarns have raised environmental concerns.However, many initiatives are working toward sustainable solutions, such as the revival of plant-based dyes, eco-friendly weaving, and direct-to-consumer artisan marketplaces. Supporting these movements ensures that the true essence of Banarasi craftsmanship lives on