What ‘chemical-free’ really means in hair colour

The term "chemical-free" has become common in the hair colour market, but according to Shyam S. Arya, MD & Founder, Indus Valley, it is often misunderstood. "Scientifically speaking, nothing can be completely chemical-free.

Water, herbs, plant extracts and natural oils are all made up of chemicals," he says. Arya believes consumers are not looking for the absence of chemicals but for products that are gentler on their hair and scalp. "The confusion begins when brands use terms like 'chemical-free' without explaining which ingredients have been removed and what alternatives have been used instead," he says. Speaking about traditional hair colours, Arya explains, "Many products contain ingredients such as ammonia, PPD and hydrogen peroxide (HPO).

Hydrogen peroxide acts as a strong bleaching agent that removes the hair's natural pigment before colour is added. While this helps achieve long-lasting colour, repeated use can contribute to dryness, increased porosity, weakened hair fibres and scalp sensitivity over time.

" Arya says consumers should focus on understanding product formulations rather than marketing claims. "Instead of asking whether a hair colour is 'chemical-free', consumers should look for information about the formulation, the ingredients used and how the product supports long-term hair health," he says.

According to Arya, the conversation should move towards damage-conscious hair colouring. "The focus should not be on unrealistic claims, but on offering a gentler colouring experience," he says. Looking ahead, Arya believes, "The future of hair colour lies in science-backed innovation, honest labelling and informed consumer choices. Trust is built when brands clearly communicate what is inside the product and how it works, helping consumers choose solutions that prioritise both colour performance and hair wellness."