Prada, Crocs, now Birkenstock: Why these shoemakers are in the news

Three global footwear giants - Prada, Crocs, and Birkenstock - have found themselves making headlines in India, though not for the reasons they might have intended. From legal crackdowns on counterfeits to cultural backlash over design appropriation, these brands have found themselves at the centre of courtrooms, cultural conversations, and crackdowns.

BIRKENSTOCK CRACKS DOWN ON COUNTERFEITS

German footwear brand Birkenstock has launched a major legal offensive in India to tackle the sale and manufacture of counterfeit products. According to a report in Reuters, court-appointed lawyers recently inspected several small-scale factories in and around Agra and New Delhi, seizing products allegedly mimicking the brand's popular sandals.

The raids stem from a lawsuit Birkenstock filed in May at the Delhi High Court, naming four footwear traders, four factories, and two unnamed individuals. The company claimed that fake versions of its products were being produced and distributed both locally and abroad.

On May 26, Justice Saurabh Banerjee issued a confidential order - made public only last week - appointing 10 local lawyers as commissioners to visit the suspected sites. The judge allowed the seizure of suspected counterfeit goods and noted that the samples shown in court appeared to be "cheap knock-offs" that could easily mislead customers.

"There is all likelihood of the public getting deceived... The differences, hardly if any, are not something which can be discernable to the naked eyes," the order read.

Birkenstock, once popular among hippies and medical professionals, has surged back into pop culture - especially after Margot Robbie wore a pair of pink Birkenstocks in the final scene of the 2023 blockbuster Barbie. In India, the brand's women's footwear is priced between $46 (Rs 3950) and $233 (Rs 20,010), making it a premium choice in a mostly non-luxury market.

The case is scheduled for its next hearing on October 6. Reuters reported that Birkenstock and its legal team declined to comment, citing the ongoing proceedings.

CROCS REVIVES 9-YEAR-OLD LEGAL BATTLE

Meanwhile, Crocs Inc. is making a return to the courtroom as well. On July 2, a court revived a nine-year-old lawsuit that the US-based company filed against several Indian shoemakers - including Bata India, Relaxo, and Liberty - over alleged design infringement.

Crocs accused these companies of copying the distinctive shape of its rubber clogs, which have developed a cult following globally since the brand's launch in 2002. While the suit was dismissed in 2019 on technical grounds, a recent appeal saw the Delhi High Court ruling that "the dismissal... cannot sustain in law", allowing Crocs to proceed with its challenge.

Crocs had originally asked the court to stop its rivals from manufacturing and selling what it called "obvious imitations" of its design. Liberty, one of the defendants, has argued that Crocs itself is not the originator of the clog style, claiming the design existed long before.

The revival of the case highlights the increasingly contested nature of intellectual property in India's $33.86 billion (Rs. 2.83 lakh crore) footwear market, where 97% of sales come from the non-luxury segment.

PRADA-KOLHAPURI CONTROVERSY

While Birkenstock and Crocs are navigating courts, Italian luxury house Prada is battling criticism on cultural grounds.

The brand triggered a storm last week after showcasing open-toe leather sandals at its Milan fashion show that bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals - traditional Indian footwear with centuries-old heritage. Critics on social media and lawmakers accused Prada of failing to acknowledge the Indian origins of the design.

In response, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, sent a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, acknowledging that the sandals were indeed inspired by "traditional Indian handcrafted footwear." He added that the design is still in early stages and that Prada is open to future engagement with Indian artisans.

A company spokesperson reiterated the brand's commitment to "craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions."

While Prada's men's leather sandals are priced upwards of $844 (Rs 72,485), Kolhapuris typically sell for around $12 (Rs 1,030) in Indian markets - underscoring the vast gap between global luxury and local artisan economies.

The acknowledgement has drawn mixed reactions. Sambhaji Chhatrapati, a descendant of the Kolhapur royal family, said artisans deserved credit for "the history and heritage of 150 years." Others, like Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, viewed it as a positive moment of global recognition: "They are happy that someone is recognising their work."

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