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The Bombay High Court on Wednesday (July 16, 2025) dismissed a public interest litigation (PIL) against Italian fashion house Prada for its alleged unauthorised use of the famous Kolhapuri chappals(sandals).
A bench of Chief Justice Alok Aradhe and Justice Sandeep Marne questioned the “locus” and statutory right of the five advocates who had filed the PIL, saying they were not the aggrieved persons or the registered proprietor or owner of the footwear.
“You are not the owner of this Kolhapuri chappal. What is your locus and what is the public interest? Any person aggrieved can file a suit. What is the public interest in this,” the court asked.
The plea had said the Kolhapuri chappal (sandals) is protected as a Geographical Indication (GI) under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act.
Watch: What makes a leather sandal a Kolhapuri chappal? | Pulse Maharashtra
The bench then said that the registered proprietor of the GI Tag can come to court and espouse their own action.
The court dismissed the plea and said it would pass a detailed order later.
Also read | Meet the real artisans behind India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals — now in the global spotlight
In their spring/summer collection, Prada showcased their ‘toe-ring sandals’, which the petition said are deceptively similar to the Kolhapuri chappals. These sandals are priced at ₹1 lakh per pair.
News in Frames | Kolhapuri chappals walk on chic runways
Hands at work: Artisans set out leather pieces of various sizes to make the chappals.
First step: Pieces of vegetable-tanned leather is laid out to dry under the sun on a terrace on Kolhapur.
Bootstrapping tradition: Leather ‘ears’ used to attach the T-strap are left to dry at a workshop.
Crafting each step: Tools used to make Kolhapuri chappals are kept in precise order for the convenience of the artisans.
Shaping the sole: Absorbed in his work, a craftsman cuts the right shape for a chappal.
On the anvil: The Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted in modest workshops.
A stitch in time: At her home workshop, an artisan stitches the sole of the chappal.
Finishing touches: Inside Kolhapur’s Chappal market, an artisan polishes a pair of Kolhapuris, giving the handmade leather its sheen.
Royal replicas: Shubam Satpute, owner of Igna Leathers, showcases a pair of royal Kolhapuris, replicas of the footwear once worn by King Shahu Maharaj, who is considered a visionary ruler.
Timeless display: Kolhapuri chappals on display at Rashtriya Leather Works, one of the oldest shops in the market. The cottage industry has received a boost with the global attention after fashion brand Prada praised the craftsmanship behind the traditional footwear.
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