A taste of home: Mastani, Pune's beloved dessert, remains unchanged; Continues to evoke nostalgia and connection for locals

If misal is Pune’s spice, mastani is its sweetness. Thick, creamy, and unapologetically indulgent, this milkshake-ice cream fusion has grown from a humble local must-have to a dessert that defines the city’s taste.

As we walk through the old city, there are a number of people, young and old, clutching tall glasses of mastani crowned with a scoop of ice cream, with syrup dripping lazily down the sides. For Punekars, this is a taste of home, a reminder of their childhood and, most importantly, memory in motion. Royal beginnings The story of mastani starts in the 1960s, when the Gujar family introduced it at Gujjar Cold Drink House in Budhwar Peth.

They wanted something richer than a milkshake but lighter than ice cream, and what they came up with was a delicious blend of milk, syrup, and ice cream, finished with dry fruits. The name, of course, came from Peshwa Bajirao’s second wife, Mastani, a symbol of beauty, indulgence, and timeless appeal.

What began as a one-of-a-kind dessert, soon became a citywide favourite, spreading from one small corner of the old city to every other neighbourhood.

New generation, old favourite By the 1970s and ’80s, Mastani had already established its fan base. Sujata Mastani in Sadashiv Peth became the city’s go-to spot for the dessert, serving mango, pista, and rose variants to long queues of loyalists. For many Punekars, a visit there became as routine as breakfast at Vohuman Cafe or bun maska at Good Luck Café. Over time, more names joined the legacy - Kavare Mastani in Budhwar Peth, Shriji Mastani in Sadashiv Peth, and more – each giving the classic recipe their unique spins.

Even the presentation began to evolve. Mastani started appearing in takeaway bottles and mason jars, often layered with nuts or chocolate syrup. But at its heart, it remained the same - thick, cold, and comfortingly familiar. Mango mastani for the W! Shailesh Singh of Shriji Mastani says evenings and summer days are the most crowded for them. “In the 23 years of our operations, mango mastani has remained the undisputed favourite.

It’s the city’s love for thick, indulgent flavours that keeps us busy and happy.” Raju Kaware, owner of Kaware Ice Creams, echoes similar sentiments and adds, “We’ve been serving Mastani since the 1970s and the mango mastani is a crowd-puller for sure.

We ensure that the mastani tastes just like a real mango throughout the year.” The taste that lingers In a city constantly shuffling between heritage and modernity, mastani stands steady, much like the Punekars who swear by it.

It’s one of the few desserts that has never needed reinvention or marketing to stay relevant. As Atharva Gokhale, a DoP and mastani fan, says, “When I was younger, spontaneous trips to the old parts of the city for food were rare. So, I created a little routine. On certain Saturdays, I would go stay at my aunt’s house, just so we could step out for mastani at night, and I’d return home the next morning.

Over the years, that ritual turned into a personal mission of sorts.” Rest assured, mastani isn’t just dessert for Punekars; it is a legacy poured into a glass - thick, rich, and completely ours. The city’s mastani trail

I cannot imagine a trip to Pune without a stop at one of the mastani places. It’s been around since long before fancy ice cream shakes became popular in India, so it naturally stands out. I’ve tried a few different mastanis over the years, but the kesar pista mastani with extra nuts is my favourite - Krishang Baruah, a Mumbai native People don’t just like Mastani, they feel connected to it. It’s an emotional bond built on quality, rich and pure ingredients, consistency. People say that the taste of Mastani feels uniquely Puneri and truly value for money.- Nikhil Kondhalkar, 3rd generation owner of Sujata Mastani