Cultural tribute or careless copy? Portuguese fast-fashion brand Parfois under fire for ‘ghungroo-inspired’ shoes

If Prada wasn’t enough, Portuguese fast-fashion brand Parfois has now entered the chat as a ‘copycat’, with its designs being questioned for where inspiration ends and appropriation begins.

A new drop from the brand has sparked a wave of debate in the market; one of its shoes, featuring ‘anklet-cord bells’, is drawing comparisons to traditional Indian ghungroos. At first glance, the bells on the footwear may seem like a harmless design element to some, but for Indians, ghungroos hold deep-rooted significance and are a sacred accessory worn by Kathak and Bharatanatyam dancers. They don’t just make noise around the ankles like weights; they are more than ornaments that come with meaning and representation.

Ghungroos represent discipline, rhythm, and years of rigorous training. A guru often ties them on during a dancer's journey, and they serve as a sonic extension of the performer’s art. With each step in Kathak, the number of ghungroos increases, showing their dedication, experience, and devotion to the art, and it often starts with sets of 25 worn around each ankle. The number sometimes goes up to 3000 or 4000.Rani Mukerji channels YRF’s ‘malkin’ power in a green silk saree which is hard to ignore Parfois is a Portuguese fast-fashion brand that makes a pair of black slipper-like platform shoes with a ghungroo-like 'anklet cord'.

This anklet can be purchased individually or as a pair, creating sound with movement. But this design raises a debate about how a brand can reduce something so sacred to a fleeting fashion trend without giving any credit.

Fast brands have long faced criticism for borrowing from traditional crafts without giving adequate recognition. Well, after the Prada Kolhapuris, Indian brands and the community are extremely sensitive to this, as global fashion has repeatedly walked a fine line between inspiration and exploitation, leading people to debate the same issue online.“Bollywood fashion ka mustaqbil Hamza–Yalina ke naam”: What Ranveer Singh and Sara Arjun wore at ‘Dhurandhar 2's' music launch will leave you talking This controversy around Parfois’s ‘anklet chord’ is another reminder that fashion does not exist in a vacuum, but every simple and small motif or symbol carries a pinch of history that needs appreciation and credit. However, one thing is clear: in today’s fashion landscape, what you wear or carry is no longer just about style, but it also conveys a hint of sensitivity, story, and, of course, significance.