‘Kuppadam’ textiles from Chemancheri gets recognition in Republic Day event in Delhi

Kamala Shimjith and Shyamala Balakrishnan being selected to take part in the Republic Day programmes at New Delhi this year is a matter of pride for the Chemancheri unit of Kozhikode Sarvodaya Sangham, as they are stalwarts in their respective niche.

The two are the flag-bearers of the ‘Kuppadam’ variety of handloom textiles that are available at Khadi outlets across the State. In fact, Kamala is the only remaining weaver in the State who is trained to make Kuppadam saris while Shyamala has made her mark in the weaving of Kuppadam dhotis.

Kuppadam is a unique weaving method which requires the involvement of two weavers to manage the weft. The designs are manifested by the main weaver on a whim unlike the normal handloom in which they are predetermined. “It took me years to master Kuppadam weaving and making a sari is much more difficult than the dhoti as it requires intricate patterns for the borders and butas,” Kamala told The Hindu. She is assisted by another weaver Bindu in making Kuppadam saris. However, the latter is yet to master the art of designing saris.

“We make around 100 saris a year. They cost from ₹6,000 to ₹8,000 per piece and are of premium quality. A Kuppadam sari is often handed over from generation to generation,” Kamala says, adding that many political leaders are regular patrons of Kuppadam saris.

Both Kamala and Shyamala started off as teenagers in the handloom weaving sector. Kamala practically grew up in the unit as her mother and four sisters, besides cousins are all weavers. Shyamala was barely 14 when she started weaving. Both have been in the sector for more than 30 years.

“Kuppadam dhotis and saris are part of our tradition and we have a legacy. Sadly, we do not have many people to take it forward,” Shyamala says.

The Chemancheri unit of the Sarvodaya Sangham was set up by freedom fighter K.Kelappan in 1962 as a means of livelihood for the women in the locality. Even now, the unit has only female weavers and is known for the highly coveted Kuppadam clothing.

Kamala and Shyamala will leave for Delhi on January 22. Two weavers from Payyanur in Kannur district have also been selected to take part in the Republic Day programmes.